Jeez, it’s now nearly a month since I returned, about time I finished this off hey. Well, the only tale remaining to be told is that of the track.

It was an early rise, our last morning in Queenstown, to catch the first bus to Te Anau. I was really feeling it – wasted that is. Many nights of little sleep, days packed with action and adventure were finally taking their toll. We stood on the street corner where we’d been instructed to wait for the coach, and soon became a little nervous that we were only 15mins for departure, but there was no coach and no other people around either. I was so beat I hardly cared and was just leaning up against a wall trying to think straight. Steve wasn’t a whole lot better, but helped walk around looking. Bryce was the man – he found, down the street, the name of the shop our tickets were booked through, and someone nearby who quickly showed us where to go – one block behind and half a block down from our instructions – thanks ANZCRO. We made it with no time to spare, the coach had even waited for us thank goodness.

On the coach I slept, as I think each of us did. Soon we arrived in Te Anau, piled off the coach and went looking for the Department of Conservation hut where we were to pay for our transfers and confirm our places on the track. The walk from the bus stop to the hut was a bit of a wake-up call – these packs are not light! We paid our dues and then went to gather more info on the trek – a pamphlet and a video were on hand. We picked up a few points of info from these, mostly just some items we hadn’t thought to bring, but also a caution we’d heard before came through again – don’t wear cotton! It doesn’t dry and is heavy and cold when wet, and the Milford area gets about 7m of rainfall a year, so we were bound to get satched.
We left our packs at this hut and wandered back into town to buy supplies and lunch in the few hours we had before our next bus left. I had a woollen jumper, given to me by the wonderful David and Vicky way back in Johannesburg but the only warm clothes Bryce and Steve had were cotton. So we all (I) made a ruckus about it (“Cotton!”) and eventually they both wound up buying woollen fleece or poly jumpers.
Part of our walking around the town was past the great Te Anau Lake. This inspired us to find fish and chips for lunch – especially after our effort in Greymouth. We found a place along the main drag with a big sign on the roof proclaiming some of the best fish in town. In we pop and the friendly girl behind the counter tells us that unfortunately the fryer won’t be switched on for another 20mins, but if we really want the best fish experience around we should wander down the street to a place called The Ranch or The Castle or something, a pub-restaurant that serves it better, and it’s cheaper there too!
We were a little taken back by this spiel – it wouldn’t be everywhere that turned down your business and told you where to go to find something better. So off down the street we head, and sure enough, there is The Ranch, or The Castle, or something; a pub-restaurant that isn’t yet open. While waiting and perusing the menu a waitress steps out to start setting up tables. We question her about fish and chips and she is just as friendly and forthcoming as the last girl, and again is unable to satisfy our needs! The only fish on their menu is some gourmet meal that “costs $30 and it’s only a couple of bits!”
Our shock at this response was matched only by our ability to make fun of the situation. For our third attempt we tried a wholesome looking café nearby that looked open, and looked certain to not sell fish. Here we ate remarkably wholesome food at thoroughly cheap prices

I was still feeling tired, and was having to stop myself from getting grumpy, and to me it seemed too soon that we had to leave this easy, pleasant little abode and trudge back down to the Department of Conservation Hut for the bus ride to the ferry ride to the track.

We caught the bus, we drank a bottle of wine on the ferry (the last place to have it before we’d have to carry the empty bottle out of the track) and we jumped out onto the track that would define us for the next four days and three nights. This was exciting enough to calm me down; funny how quickly your attitude can change. But there was the thrill of uncertainty and challenge, and there was the freedom of isolation and independence, and the beauty of ancient mountains and virgin forest. And we were as set as we’d ever be and up for whatever would come.

More than satisfied, we jumped the gondola up the mountain that overlooks Queenstown and Lake Wakatipu. The ride is gentle, even peaceful and the view up the top is quite pleasant. There’s a luge ride at the top too, so we three all had a couple of runs – on the basic track first cos we had to, then on the advanced track. Apart from having to keep an eye on your video camera that’s about to fall out of your cart, it was fantastic fun, ad not too unsafe if you know what you’re doing; the cart will lean right up on one side before going over, giving you heaps of stop time.
Bryce and I each had to stop on our way down the advanced track (lost stuff out of the cart) which put us in a great position to race the last stretch. He had the front position advantage, but I had greater speed. He blocked my way quite successfully, but the knocks and extra speed he picked up meant he stacked it just at the end of the track. I saw it coming and stopped without hitting him, and had a great laugh. Fortunately there was no serious damage, just some grazes down his leg.
We scooted over to the lookout points for some photos and again stood and appreciated the view for a while. Soon we took off down again and soon after that we were back with the Connections guys for celebratory farewell drinks.
It was of course, great to see these guys as again, and it was out last night. But it wasn’t quite The Same though, with us having been away for a few days and the new people who joined, and this was cool. We had a great time, a few of us sat up in one of the girl’s rooms for a while chatting and sharing some drinks. Susanne got tired and said goodnight and I stepped outside to walk her back to her room (which was next door). We weren’t there long though before I swept her off her feet and we ran off leaving behind only one of her jandals.

The next day was 31st Jan, our last day in Queenstown, with all its adventure activities, and our last full day in New Zealand that we wouldn’t be on the Milford Track for.
Taking this into consideration, we opted to spend it all organising ourselves for the Milford Track. We ran around camping shops and supermarkets across Q’town and Frankton checking out prices and buying all sorts of gear we hadn’t thought of. It was quite frustrating and took longer than any of us had hoped or planned, but it had to be done. After getting everything together we packed our backpacks, took our luggage to our post-trek hotel, and returned the hire car.

Way back in Blenheim Bryce acquired a pair of sunglasses that he found in the back seat of the wine-tour van we went in. These monstrosities stayed with him up util just the day before now when he bought a good pair of polarised specs for the track (and his sail home to Aus on the Young Endeavour). So we were left with his crazy sunnies and, none of us having the heart to bin them, decided that the girl taking our hire car back should be the fortunate recipient of them. Somehow I wound up custodian of the beauties, and it was down to me to achieve the feat. Ended up that no amount of waving the things around triggered even a glance at them from this girl so I changed over to Plan B and craftily thought to leave them on her desk, preferably without looking odd leading over and without her noticing.
Success was mine, and it was poetic I thought that the glasses we so randomly stumbled across would be randomly stumbled across by their next owner too. This was great, but as we sat in the complimentary van in the driveway, this girl came out to tell us we’d left them. We all laughed and told here it was part of our plan to leave them and she was welcome to keep them. Her face brightened as she smiled the broadest we’d seen, and she left happy that she’d scored so well.

Back in Q’town we didn’t let the long hours of sunlight go to waste. Before taking the obligatory gondola ride we treated ourselves to a wonderful large indulgent meal at The Lone Star – another top recommendation. All three of us thoroughly enjoyed our meals, and the service from the quirky Maori waiter guy (who looked like he’d have been more at home on the footy field); I’d easily recommend this place to anyone else too.

Queenstown, popular Queenstown. As we were driving through Frankton (a small satellite of Queenstown) we thought to look up our Q’town accommodation for when we’d return from the Milford Track. Steve read out “Sherwood Manor” and I instantly replied “oh, well that’d be it right there”, pointing out the window, and we all marvelled at the coincidence. We drove on into Q’town and found our hotel right in the centre. As we drove around to find a park Steve said “I wonder where the Connections guys are at” and I instantly replied “there they are right there”, honking the horn and flashing the lights at our old Connections coach driving straight past us. And we all marvelled at the coincidence.
Later on us three wandered down to the Rydges hotel where the Connections guys were staying. Masquerading as though we were still on the tour we enjoyed a cheap drink or two before wandering into town in search of great curry.
We found an Indian restaurant and were treaded to the most mediocre tasting curry any of us recalled, complete with lousy service and unpleasant reminders of the meal the following day.
Steve and I then headed back up to Rydges while Bryce went back to our room for some shut-eye. I met up with and spent some more quality time with the lovely Susanne. Queenstown’s lake is tops to walk beside, night or day.
Back in the room finally, I found the guys both in bed and looking like that had been for a while, but not looking like they’d had any sleep. And no wonder, right under us was a night club, and this night was Karaoke night. And we marvelled at the coincidence of us finding accommodation above the latest open club in the backpacker capital of the country, just on the two nights we most needed sleep.

Wanaka was a major stop on the way. Here we did some initial shopping for supplies for our upcoming 4 day hike – or at least looked at the seemingly exorbitant prices, and then headed to Puzzle World.
What we figured would be a glorified kids playground turned out to be a quite cool and interesting place – especially for nerds like us, but I’d say there’s something amusing there for most people.
From the room where hundreds of faces on all the walls follow you as you walk around the room (their whole facts, not just the eyes), to the holograph room, to the slant room where you can sit of a chair and ride it uphill, it’s all a bit of fun. There’s also a large maze, where the idea is to go from the start to all four corners and then find your way back to the start again. Steve and I stuck together as Bryce was taking it fairly seriously. Soon though we were feeling competitive and we ended up getting around quickly, even beating Bryce. We were all good natured about it, but I’m sure there are people who get quite worked up. Unfortunately we didn’t see any biff.

After the mandatory tourist-holding-up-the-building-on-a-40-degree-lean photo we resumed the trail to Queenstown. All of our driving took second place to stopping for gorgeous countryside. At any random intervals along our journey we could be found driving down a beaten off-road track to put our feet in the turquoise translucent water of a glacial river, and goo-gooing at the surrounding mountainous scenery. I think this played a large part in how much we enjoyed this beautiful land.